Amazing Graze At Martin No.38

If you’re a girl or a friend of Dorothy, you probably would like Graze at Martin No. 38. I can’t imagine real beer-loving, football-following men who would want to go there unless they were with their girlfriends or wives. Not that’s there’s anything wrong with Graze, let’s get this straight – it’s just that it has a very definite appeal that speaks more to a girl rather than a guy.

 

Opened in end March, it’s one of those stylish, I-am so-with-it-cool restaurants which have mushroomed in the suddenly-revived Mohammed Sultan Road neighbourhood. The sister restaurant of Graze up in Rochester Park, it’s physically connected to the Thai restaurant Kha which had moved over from HortPark. As it is owned by Yenn Wong, the young businesswoman linked with JIA boutique hotels, you can be sure Graze is design-focused and the people behind it are all ‘brand name’ FT designers – with Kerry Hill as architect and award-winning Melbourne-based designers Hecker Guthrie.

 

Walk in and you’ll notice how cheery and airy it feels, because of its high ceilings, white furniture and full length windows. It’s a friendly place, but not too warm or it’d be uncool. What I liked was the long tiled white communal table, the see-through pantry with a sad ham or two hanging amid the empty space, and most of all, the little study cubicles-cum-single seaters which even offers you an electrical outlet so you can sip some wine, have some food, plug in and work or surf on your laptop if you were alone. That’s a really nice and thoughtful touch. If I were in the vicinity and killing some time, that’s what I will do. Definitely a touch of brilliance!

 

The nicest place to seat yourself is an airy annexe that has a curious wall display of a row of chairs hanging high on a wall. My hosts commented it reminded them of an Alice in Wonderland setting – falling down the rabbit hole, I guess. That’s a cute touch, but I am not sure if I would like to sit directly under the hanging chairs. I think I’ll feel a little insecure. This section can be closed off as a private room – so pen that down as a possibly place for an intimate little party.

 

How’s the food? Not bad at all. I won’t travel the length of the island to eat the food at Graze, but I would make this one of my top choices if I were within 15 minutes drive – and that’s no insult, considering you can get to many areas in Singapore in that time.

 

For starters, I enjoyed the very generous Caesar salad ($16) which was served with poached egg, pancetta and  anchovy and some garlic herb toast on the side. Definitely one of the better ones around, it was generous, with crisp leaves and nicely dressed. The egg was perfectly done too – soft and lightly runny. Makes a good light meat with a glass of wine, and if you like, you can have an optional addition of chicken or prawns which bumps the price up to $21 and $23 respectively. The saffron butternut and cilantro soup ($13) was recommended too, but I found the tangy flavours overpowered the butternut; and it wasn’t was creamy as I like it. Not a favourite, I’m afraid.

 

The duck confit was another highlight, not just for its lovely flavour and moist, flaky meat but also its very friendly price of $25. Most duck confit in restaurants here are priced in the $30 – $38 range, so this is cheap and cheerful. And very delicious, did I mention that? It was served with baby potatoes, spinach and a sweet touch of maple pan juice. I wasn’t too hot over the rotisserie spring chicken served with thick chips and coleslaw though. It was rather too red at the bone and flavours a tad bland. I thought it could have been marinated better. The thick chips were a consolation, but once again, I won’t order this next time. There are plenty of other interesting dishes on the menu which I haven’t had a chance to try yet. Amongst the dishes I have bookmarked to try next time are: seared calamari & chipolata, rocket, balsamic, lemon ($15), Rigatoni, sage & minced beef, aged parmesan ($19), and Pan-roasted barramundi, orange & beets salad, green chili almond mayo ($24). See? The prices are very reasonable, and dishes rather creative. For dessert, make space for the classic Pavlova with fresh berries, thickened cream, passion fruit sauce and mango sorbet ($10), and the Warm apple & blackcurrant crumble, pot of crème fraiche & pomegranate molasses ($10). Lovely stuff.

 

Good to note is the extensive list of 13 wines by the glass (from $9), and freshly cured charcuterie available. It restaurant also serves artisan coffee by Graffeo. Adjacent to the restaurant is a retail section called Provisions, distinct with its row of blue retro refrigerators. Unfortunately I doubt if it was ready when I was there. The fridges stood empty and the provisions were sparse. Perhaps it takes a while before they stock up properly.  Corkage $30.

Verdict: Good food, happy prices;  best for a girls’ night out or dinner for the style conscious family! 

 

Martin No. 38
38 Martin Road
Tel: (65) 6509 1680