Posted on Thu, 11 Aug 2011

The Vineyard’s Gorgeous at Hortpark!

You know how they say the success of a restaurant is location, location, location? They forgot one thing….it has also got to be in tune with the vibe of that location. When you have a nice park to prowl around in, for instance, the last thing you want is a fine dining restaurant in the midst of it which keeps you, together with your sweaty exercise gear and track shoes, from entering. That’s why in Singapore,  the new Vineyard @ Hortpark off Pasir Panjang and Alexandra Road is such a nice spot to relax in after your have  ambulated around the botanical paths of Hortpark.

Recently opened, it’s taken over the old Kha Thai restaurant which occupied that nice restaurant space in the main pavilion at the entrance. For those who aren’t familiar, this restaurant is set in the midst of a fairly large and lush tropical park which looks its best in the coolness of the early morning or in the evening when the heat of the sun abates.

 

Vineyard, like its name suggests, makes a comfy, informal place to knock back a drink in the late afternoon as the sun sets, or for a midweek brunch after a jaunt round the garden or walk along the aerial bridges of Henderson Wave. Vineyard is a smart bistro, no doubt, but it’s easy going as well. The best tables are those by the huge picture windows overlooking the greenery, and out al fresco by the elevated terrace. And what a beautiful terrace it is with a view of the park! Have coffee with Mom there in the morning, drinks with the girls in the evening, dinner with your man or heck – drag the whole happy family. Anything goes, and it certainly goes very well at Vineyard! (Yes, I am enthusiastic. Does it show?)

I like the food there, and the prices are very friendly too.  Let’s put it this way – I have been thinking of bringing good friends there, and hoping to potter there for a midweek dinner soon, especially when the routine of the daily grind gets to me. Vineyard has such a pretty, airy feel, it makes you feel like you’ve gone on a micro-holiday. It takes you away and refreshes you – at least for a while. Keywords here – wine, good food, good value, pretty surroundings.

So, the food? The menu is daringly mixed. There’s some Thai dishes alongside lots of mod western cuisine – the usual suspects of angus beef, kurobuta pork, pasta, thin crust gourmet pizzas. Starters abound, with 14 appetiser options and no less than six kinds of soups – a lot compared to most restaurants of this kind which have at most two soup options. This mish-mash is a dangerous, dicey thing to handle, and most restaurants who try it end up looking schizophrenic; but this restaurant does it with flair.

I liked the pan fried foie gras ($28) with its nice crisp surface layer, nicely complemented by an apricot compote and sherry duck rilette; it wasn’t too mushy either – just the way I like it. The Norwegian oak smoked salmon with lemon confit ($22) was so elegant – a delightful combination of light sweet flavours, with a salmon that was nicely soft, lightly smoked and absolutely gorgeous! We tried a clear seafood tom yam ($10): it was okay, a little thin on flavour and could do better with a stronger stock and more kick of spice. I suspect it has been moderated to suit a more universal palate, not just for those who love it hot and fiery. 

For mains, the Cornish game hen with rosemary gravy ($26) was most enjoyable, all tender, honest and richly rustic flavours. The Snake River Wagyu rib eye  ($35) with red wine jus was also delightful and hearty, with deep, juicy flavours and cooked just right. The pizzas were thin-crust jobs with a creative spin from the usual – four cheese with fig marmalade and rocket ($22),  mushrooms with aged brie and smoked bacon ($20) and for the manly man among us, the carnivorous ‘Pizza All Meat’ topped with angus beef ragout, aged salami and corona ham ($22). In fact, many of the dishes there are like that – given a tweak here and there, so the largely familiar comes with a spot of gastro-surprise: pan fried John Dory comes with coco beans ragout and pancetta ($28), the crisp kurabuta pork belly ($28) is served with apple salad and raisin pesto, and the butternut pumpkin soup ($10) is topped with peanut butter emulsion! Slurp! Oh yes, and we mustn’t forget the lemon lava cake ($12; first time I have come across this – have I been missing something?), cherry trifle and pistachio ice cream and sticky date pudding ($12) for dessert.

 Having said that, classics are also there for the eating, like green curry with rice, garoupa with sweet tamarind sauce and fish and chips. There’s also light options like Thai beef noodle soup ($12), seafood pineapple rice ($12) for aunties who have walked the walk and need to eat!

 

For a place called Vineyard, you know that wines are a main draw here as well, and the folks here keep their prices happy by importing wines in themselves. And because they are from Creative Eateries with their huge stable of restaurants, they’ve got the volume to keep prices at good value. No happy hour, sadly, and the cocktail I tried really didn’t have much of a kick in it; so with that in mind, just get a bottle from their substantial wine list and enjoy.

Definitely a place I will go back to again and again, and one of those rare restaurants in Singapore that gives you good value. If only they’d do up a good happy hour!

 

33 Hyderabad Road
#02-02
Tel: 6479 7977

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